No heating or hot water
Boilers that won’t fire up, lock out or show an error code, and radiators or taps that stay cold.

Boiler not firing, losing pressure or showing an error code? Compare quotes from up to 3 vetted, Gas Safe registered engineers in Reading.
Boilers that won’t fire up, lock out or show an error code, and radiators or taps that stay cold.
Pressure that keeps dropping, drips from the boiler or pipework, and banging, kettling or whistling.
Faulty fans, pumps, diverter valves, PCBs and thermostats, and frozen condensate pipes in winter.
Boiler repairs are not a DIY job. Only a Gas Safe registered engineer can work on a gas boiler, so don’t DIY, and ask to see the engineer’s Gas Safe ID card before they start. If you smell gas, leave the property, turn off the gas at the meter if it’s safe to do so, and call the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999.
A few simple checks before you book can sometimes save a call-out. Look at the pressure gauge. Most sealed systems should read between about 1 and 1.5 bar when the heating is cold. If it’s below 1, your boiler manual will show how to top it up. Check the thermostat and timer haven’t lost their settings after a power cut, and that the gas is on at your other appliances. Note down any fault code on the display, as it helps the engineer bring the right parts.
In a cold snap, one of the most common faults is a frozen condensate pipe. Modern condensing boilers drain acidic water through a plastic pipe, and where it runs outside it can freeze and shut the boiler down. You may hear gurgling before the boiler locks out. Pouring warm water, not boiling, over the outside section often clears it. An engineer can reroute or insulate the pipe so it doesn’t happen again.
Reading’s hard water causes its own faults. Limescale builds up in the plate heat exchanger that heats the hot water in a combi, so the hot water may run lukewarm or swing between hot and cold while the heating works fine. On older systems, sludge from corroding radiators can block the pump and the main heat exchanger. That’s why engineers often recommend a magnetic filter and a system flush after a repair.
Once the engineer has found the fault, ask for a written price for the part and labour before they go ahead. Check whether your boiler is still under the maker’s warranty, as the manufacturer may send its own engineer if the boiler has been serviced every year. If the boiler is more than 12 to 15 years old and needs a major part, such as a new heat exchanger, ask for a replacement price too, so you can compare the two.
If you have no heating or hot water and there’s a baby, an older person or someone unwell at home, say so when you post your job. Reviews on Trade Pilot come from real, invoiced jobs, so you can see how other homeowners rated an engineer’s repairs.
| Job | Typical UK range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Gas Safe engineer, per hour | £50–£80 | Many charge a call-out that covers the first hour and diagnosis |
| Frozen or leaking condensate pipe | £80–£200 | Rerouting or insulating the pipe costs more |
| Pump or diverter valve replacement | £250–£450 | Includes the part and labour |
| Fan replacement | £200–£400 | Depends on the boiler make |
| PCB (circuit board) replacement | £300–£550 | Genuine manufacturer parts cost more |
| Heat exchanger replacement | £400–£750 | On an older boiler, get a replacement quote to compare |
Typical UK ranges; your quotes depend on the job and access.
Check your Reading postcode and describe what you need. Photos help.
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